Starter 1965 40hp Johnson
Maintaining Johnson/Evinrude6 hp CD Series2cycle outboards1965 – 1979 (General Repairs)What I have found isthat most of these little motors 10 hp and under usually have lived a hard life.The majority are used occasionally, but run hard by a non-motor oriented person, hauled inthe back of a pickup truck bed, then thrown in a shed or barn corner until next time. As an old horsetrading days saying goes, 'Run hard and put away wet'.A few years ago I was in aJohnson / Evinrude marine shop waiting on the parts guy to finish histransaction with another customer, I could nothelp but wondering around thru their racks of used motors for sale. Inoticed, of the motors here, there were about (5) Evinrude 6hpFisherman and possibly (8 or 10) 9.9/15hp Johnsons making upabout 1/2 of all motorsfrom 2hp up to about 30hp that were there. So, from what I sawthere, it appears therewere a lot of the older OMC smaller motors still around and being sold.It appears thefirst OMC 6 hp were introduced in 1965, Johnson model was CD, while theEvinrude code was from 6200 to 6900. Prior to that this, the samebasic motor existed as a 5.5 hp, so what you see here may also pretty well relate tothe earlier 5.5hp motors. And then after the 5.5s were dropped a5hp ran parallel with these 6hp motors for a while.These early 6 hp motorsare relatively simple to work on, in the fact that about anyone with a little bit ofmechanical ability can work on them and keep them running. Thosewho shy away from the older points and condenser ignition system becausethey think they are obsolete and they don't run very good, should try one of these when it is set upright.
After I have finished rebuilding the one in this article,it only takes one pull or two to start it no matter whether it is hot or coldand it is seeing many hours trolling on my grandson's 16' Hewescraftboat.Here I willmostly be dealing with a 1972 version Evinrude Fisherman. It seemsthat every used motor that I have ever bought from a private party hashad something wrong with it.
Many times I purchased it from aperson who never even ran it and had gotten it from someone else.The problem is most of these people were considered friends (prior tothe motor deal). Nomatter who or what the circumstances, I seem to have to do repairs, ANDwith some of them have gotten extensive. It appears that mostfishermen do not know how to maintain their motors, or maybe even do not care,as long as it runs somewhat.But I refuse totravel to a fishing area with a motor of an unknown quality, taking thechance of a potential problem.
Find great deals on eBay for 1965 johnson outboard/40 hp. Shop with confidence. Skip to main content. 1965 JOHNSON SEA-HORSE OUTBOARD 40 HP RK-RKL-27A PARTS MANUAL 380579 (317). Johnson Evinrude Outboard 40 hp - 60 hp STARTER MOTOR 2 cylinder.
Any used motor I repair has to run in a tank for a few hours at allspeeds before I am convinced of their water cooling condition and carburetor idle jetsetting. I often times even start then up the night before afishing tripif they have sat for a while, to be sure they will berunning when I am ready. I am getting tooold to have to crank and crank on a cantankerous motor or have to resortto a paddle to get back to the launch or worse just to a shore. I have even called a coupleof fishing trips short by a day or so because of a motor that did not appear to berunning right. I have also struck out a couple of times and had motorfailures on the water.This motorbeing worked on here was ultimately given, along with a 1968 10'Columbia fiberglass tri-hull boat to my 19 year old grandson.Year of Manufacture:This is important in any repair, for obvious reasons. The1965-1968 were designated CD models.
They were made in standard 15' shaftsor the long 20' versions which was designated by a 3rd letter L in themodel number. However finding a longshaft motor of this series is quiterare as in those days most of these small motors were used on small fishingboats and not as kicker motors for larger fishing boats.CD / CDL22 = 1965CD / CDL 23 = 1966CD / CDL 24 = 1967CD / CDL 25 = 1968After 1968 the year was incorporated in the model number as explained below.6R69-6RL69 = 1969As a model6R78SC, would indicate a 6 hp,Ropestarter, 1978 year of manufacture and Cmodel revision. Since this does not have in the code Lbetween the hp designation and the year, it is a short shaft version. The numbers you are looking for will be the first 3 numbers which equatesto the hp and then the middle to the year, as 6hp, the ( 4)equates to1978 where the ( S)would indicate a shorts shaft.Here is a tohelp you determine any of the Johnsons. And here is thefor the Evinrudes. Evinrudein those years used a different 5 digit model code, as 6 902.For those of you readers outside of the UnitedStates, here is another that may better help with your motors.After 1979, OMC'smanufacturing year code, which included Evinrude, is the word 'INTRODUCES',with each letterequating to a number ie: I =1,N =2,T =3,R =4,etc.
As illustrated below.As before, the last 3 letters are what you are lookingfor. Then in this case, disregard the last one, as it pertains only to a modelrevision that only on specific cases may be revalent to a marine repairman ifproblems arise. A code of J10ELENA would equate to J ohnson, 10hp, Electricstart, Long20' shaft, EN= 1 992, & the Acould be a model revision, so this motor would probably be made in the very first part ofthe year. You may encounter a code of something similar to J10SELCTC.This would have been Johnson, 10hp, SailMaster, Electricstart, Extra Longshaft, 1983, andthe C could be a model revision. In this case with the SEin the model number, indicating a SailMaster, all the SailMasters would haveall had the extra long 25' shaft.
For more detailedinformation on worldwide production. CODEINTRODUCESCODEUsingthis code system, if the motor was sold as an Evinrude, then the first letter would havebeen an Einstead of the J for Johnson. Then you can encounter motors made in or for other countries, which will havesome added letters as mentioned later in this article.Usually the name / ID plate will be found on the LH side (lookingforward) of theupper steering/clamping bracket. Sometimes however it can get removed. If this happens, you canstill usually tell which motor it is by looking at the 25 cent size soft plug in theupper rear RH side of the block.
This will usually have the actual OMCmodel and the serial number, OR a code that usually an uncipherable code except by the factory. It is interesting to also note that the6 hp uses the sameblock as 5hp and the 8hp, so you could see either hp with the same 6R78M numbers here asthe 8hphas. You may find that the plug numbersdo not match any of the codes, as the factory changed things as time went on.Shown in the photo below, you can see the model is a6202 series D. This 'D' represents a slight model change, soobviously would not have been made very early in the year.
Now by going to my Evinrude ID articleand looking up the model 6202 you will see it was made in 1972.Again in the photo below, where here the serial number is preceded by aJ, my guess here is that that both the Johnson and Evinrude came off thesame assembly line, but the Evinrude split off with a different paintjob and cowling. The soft plug ID of a 1972 6hp EvinrudeExploded P artsLists: For ainternet link to a marine parts sellerthat has exploded views as shown below in this article. Fromthis business, you can identify the numbered parts and purchase partsonline from them.Cowling Change: There was also a cowling changeapprox 1975 where the aluminum lower cowling had a straight upper edgewith a matching straight lower edge on the fiberglass cowling.
Thepre 75 cowlings are not interchangeable with the later ones.Similarities: In this series of motors, I am not asfamiliar with all the variations as I am with the 9.9/15s (but learning), but have been fortunateenough to have a reader from Australia who has supplied some data that I was notaware of. My thanks go to Noel Puzey.There are manysimilarities between the 5, 5.5, 6 and 7.5 hp motors of the years up to near the1972 being written about here. The lower crankshaft seal unit is the same(with slight variation of how it is retained) for most ofthese. Water pump impellers are the same for all from 2hpto the 7.5hp in years 1952 to 1978. The 1979 impeller was an oddball using a smallerdiameter.
Some motors close in HP range used similar carburetors (eitherjetting or throat diameter being different), reed valves and intake manifold may have beenchanged also. Some even shared the same sized pistons, whileothers may have had a larger piston while sharing many othercommon parts but a different carburetor. Smart thinking by the manufacturer.In this small series of motorsyou will find the 5hp Evinrude 5502 model made from 1965 to 1968 both used thesame Evinrude powerhead and lower pan as the 6hp, with the upper cowlinggenerally the same, but useddifferent latches. The Johnson LD series was the same except the moresquared motor cowling. The recommended spark plugs for these motorswere Champion J4J. The main difference on these 5hp was that thecarburetor on the 6hp used a different mainjet to which allowed 500 RPM over the5hp. And the 5hp had no shifting gearbox along with a less refined transomtilt system.Then a 4hpfollowed, using a Johnson model of 4R70E.
This one used atotally vertically different pivoting spool type starter and the throttle lever is simpler, being a rod on the RH side. These would have had theelectronic ignition however. It also used the remote fueltank as the 5hp and 6hp, while other motors in smaller size utilized smaller internal tanks. Probablythe same lower unit/gearbox was used on both.
And it appears that nothermostat was used on this one. And it could be purchased in either thestandard horizontal gearbox or the angled 'Weedless' unit.Some of thefollowing parts are shared by other size motors, the gasket OEM #329103 fits 5 hp 1965-1968, 5.5hp1959-1964, and 6 hp 1965-1979. Gearcase seal kit6 hp 1968-1979In 1977 theignition was changed from points and condensers to the electronic ignition,Capacitor Discharge Ignition, (CDI) using a power packwith externalcoils like the 9.9/15hp used of the same era. The later motors also started using moreplastic parts than previously seen.Flywheel: To get to the magneto (whichconsists of the points and coils) which are under the flywheel, you willneed to pull the flywheel off the tapered shaft of the crankshaft.Removal of this nut needs a 3/4' socket.
If it is so tight thatyou can not loosen it normally, then try to tap the wrench with a mediumhammer to jar the nut loose initially. If that does not work thenyou will have to resort to a strap wrench or a air impact gun.Most times ifyou just loosen the flywheel nut a few threads, (leaving it about evenwith the shaft end) then hold onto the flywheel by wrapping your armaround it and lift up enough to put a lot of strain on (almost holding themotor upright) then rap the nut HARD with a HEAVY brass mallet, theflywheel should pop off the crankshaft spline. The reason for thebrass hammer is so it does not damage the nut or shaft threads. Youcould get by with a regular hammer if you are careful. One hardrap is better than a dozen love taps.If this doesnot pop the flywheel loose, then you will have to resort to a flywheelpuller as shown in use below. These motors have a thin aluminumcover held in by the flywheel nut that covers these puller holes.There are 3 holes that are threaded 1/4' X 20 TPI.
Thepullers usually have 3 slots milled inthe top flange to accommodate the bolts to be threaded intocorresponding threaded holes in the top of the flywheel. This puller could bealso use if only 2 opposing holes were there. The large bolt intop is threaded into the puller boss. In use, you thread the 3smaller bolts into the flywheel so that they will allow the puller toset evenly on top.
You then tighten the large bolt into thepuller, which puts pressure on the crankshaft end, pulling the flywheelup. If it comes really tight, then with the large bolt'spressure on the crankshaft, rap the large bolt head with a heavy hammer, whichusually will help and pop it off.In the photo on the left below, thepuller body handle (in the mechanic's right hand) simply keeps theflywheel from rotating when tightening the center puller bolt. Inreality that handle is not really needed as you can hold the flywheelitself. Therefore the RH photo is the same basic unit and morecommonly seen. Illustration from factorymanualHome made f lywheelpuller in positionThis flywheel islocated in the proper position on the crankshaft by a 1/2 round woodruffkey.
This proper position is critical as it times the pointsopening to when the spark fires the spark plugs (because of the locationof the magnets in the flywheel). This position isjust as critical on the later CDI ignition. If this key getsdamaged or partly sheared, creating a OUT OF TIME situation, the motor will not run well, or possiblywill not even start.Magneto Ignition,Points &Condensers:The one good thing about them is that the points,condensers and some of the coils interchange from even the 2 and 3 hp clear up tothe 40 hp motors of similar years, EXCEPT the 9.9/15 hp series which aredifferent. On these motors all the points are setat.020'.
If you get a motor that is not firing, pull the flywheel (ituses a 3/4' socket for the nut) then clean up the points with a point file.The last point file I purchased (2009) cost $7.50 from a auto parts dealer.Sometimes all you are doing is to just remove oxidation off the contactsif the motor has sat for some time. This can be usuallyremedied by running a point file thru the point openings to freshen upthe contact metal. Most of the servicemanuals say to replace the points if worn or burned. Well, take it from me youcan clean them up for many more hours of run time.However if the points are really pitted, that is a sign that thecondenser is not performing to capacity. If this is the case, thenit is recommended to replace them. The one thing that does wear isthe points rub bar if it has not been lubricated from the last repair.If you replace the points and stillhave running problems, you may well could have contaminated the pointsurfaces with oily fingers. If this may be the case, removethe flywheel, rotate the crankshaft until one of the points are open,wash it off with lacquer thinner, rotate and do the other set.
Theninsert a section of brown paper shopping bag in the points, rotate thecrankshaft until the points close then pull this paper thru the points.This should clean them.This older ignition using condensers,if they start to break down, the motor can start and run for a while, but whenthings warm up, the condensers and or coils can begin to short out internallycausing the motor maydie. You can crank until you are blue in the face but it refuses to start.Let it set for an hour to let these components to cool down and it MAY then restart. Time to change condensers,however hang onto the old ones as long as possible as the newer manufacturedones have a reputation of not being made that good.A condenser is simply a lot of aluminum foil wrapped between waxed paper as aninsulator.
If the paper starts to deteriorate, after running for a while,the metal will heat up then expand. IF this happens in a location where theinsulation is bad the metal shorts out to the next wrap, nullifying or shortingout to ground so no output is achieved. But IF this is the case, many times when thecondenser cools down, the short goes away until it warms up again. Once ithas done this process a few times, then the short becomes rather permanent & thecondenser is inoperativeIf that driver coil (under the flywheel) starts to fail, is cracked, or starting to melt down,or whatever, there is apossibility that it would also operate when cold, but fail by shorting out when heatedup by the running of the motor. However do not just replace them becausethey are oozing black tar like goo. They may still run for some time.For a more in depth article on magnetoignition along with fine tuning the point settings. This article is directed at the 1974-1976 9.9/15hp OMCs,but the principal is the same for about all of the magneto ignition OMCs evenwith those that have external coils.Coils: Coils for these pointsand condenser motors are the same from 1949mostly up thru 1973 from motors 5.5hp thru 40hp.
The coils, especiallythose in the 1960's motors have a reputation for cracking and allowingmoisture in and then starting to break down, creating problems. Thefactory (or supplier) changed the plastic formulationon the coils at some stage and the replacement ones are considerablybetter. If the coils have cracks that you can see,they maybe also have cracks below which could be allowing electricity toshort out to the plate. Here you see deterioration of the coil encasement, possibly fromthis motor setting in a damp environment for a number of yearsAfter doing someweb surfing I found a website by Doug Penn where he showed on a video how totest both the coil and condenser of older OMC outboards.for a coil testing video, andfor a condenser testing video.Timing Plate: If you have to remove thistiming plate, there are 4 screws that need to be removed from the topthat attach the timing plate to the timing plate base.
Thesescrews are marked by the red arrows as shown below. Note that 2 ofthem also hold the coils in place.
If you take it apartenough that the coils are loose, be sure that they settle down insidethe small protrusions of the plate when you reassemble them.There is no replaceable friction ring on the 6/ 8hp, as on some later motors. On these there is a nonreplaceable bronze bushing and it is normal to have a slight amount ofslop here. About the only way to tighten is to use a center punchthen randomly punch into the bronze, upsetting it enough to tighten things.Or if you have the time and energy, you could make a THIN steel or brassshim, place it either around the base boss or inside the timing plate,lubricated with grease.
If you venture into this, fit it first,maybe even epoxy it in one or the other. Timing plateattachment screws & good (replacement) coilsThe timing platethrottle cam is screwed onto the underside of the timing plate by 2 hexhead machine screws. By loosening these, you can adjust the cam tothe carburetor throttle arm.
In the photo below these screws areshown by the red arrows. The blue arrow shows the throttle arm towhere it is just touching the cam for this particular motor. Ifyour motor is hard to start with the twist grip throttle positioned atSTART, advance it a bit faster, which may help. Or readjust thecam so it positions the throttle arm a bit faster.Instructions from a OMC factory service manualon how to adjust the carburetor arm to the timing plate throttle cam are as follows.(a) If thethrottle does not close, either the throttle return spring is too weakand should be replaced or the throttle linkage is binding.(b) To adjust the throttle cam, advance thethrottle control to a position where the cam follower leading(starboard) edge is opposite the mark on the throttle cam.
SeeFigure 3-19 (which is basically the photo below). At this pointthe throttle valve should be closed. If it does not, adjust asfollows;(c) Advance throttle control. Themark on throttle cam must be directly behind rounded starboard edge ofcam follower just as throttle begins to open. See Figure 3-19.(d) Loosen the hex head screws holding the camto the armature plate base. Push cam back towards rear of motor,then pull cam forward until it contacts the cam follower. (Chokeknob must be all the way in).(e) Tighten screws and recheck position ofthrottle valve.
Throttle valve should just begin to open when theflat port side of the cam follower passes the mark on the cam.' Exploded view ofcarburetorHere is a close-up top view of thecarburetor, note the pea sized welch plug on top & the 2 lead shotplugs driven in to seal holes on the sideYou can usuallytear the carburetor apart, soak it in a carburetor cleaner overnight,blow it out with compressed air and reassemble without purchasing a repairkit. Just spraying carburetor cleaner in it does not constitutecleaning even if stripped down. You may luck out and not have toremove the pea sized aluminum welch plug on to rear center or the 2 leadshot sealed passageway covers. If not, then plan B is do it overbut remove these plugs and clean everything including the passagewaysunder the se plugs.The float is varnished and may look cruddy, but if it is stillintact and seems to float in gasoline it should function. All that is usually needed is tocheck to see that the float level is with the bowel flange whenassembled without the bottom bowl on and turnedupside down. If not parallel, then bend the metal stop tab on thefloat needle valve areato adjust the float level.
If the float is not set at the correctlevel for the shut off point under pressure from the fuel pump in thecarburetor, this could cause motor to run lean or rich.Some carburetorrepair kits cover a wide range of HP ranging from 5hp even up to 20 hp, howeverdo not think just because the kit is the same for a 20hp as it is forthe 6hp that they use the same carburetor. The kits may havenumerous extra parts, as main jets where you just use the one required for yourmotor. The breather throat of the carburetor may also be a larger diameterfor different hp of motors.The main jetorifice in the bottom of the bowl has a recess on these models and befull of crud, even though they look clear. On the earlier models(pre-70) there is a adjustable main (high speed) needle jet on the frontlower bottom, this needs to be removed for cleaning. On the latercarburetors there is a clean outplug in front that you can access this orifice. Use a properfitting screwdriver to remove the orifice, but be sure there is no debrisin or behind it. Be sure the plug screw has a good sealing gasket.This plug is in the same location that the early carburetors had a adjustablemain needle jet.Inspect theidle needle jet to see if it is bent or has the tip broken off,(on these the tip does not come to a sharp point) straighten if need be or purchase a new one.
Reinstall thisjet needle / rich-lean screw, check the packing nut for tightness to insure thereis no air leak around the shaft. The correct way to adjustthis low speed needle, is to turn it all the way in until it is lightlyseated. You then turn it back out 1 1/2 turns.
Thatbecomes a reference point for further adjustment. I like to beable to get a equal rotation each way so set the knob at about whatwould be 4 on the top. This should give you a basic setting.Once you get it where you want, you can pull it off, then reposition the knob whereyou want it.With the motorwarmed up and the twist throttle in a SLOW position approximating yourintended slow/trolling speed, turn this low speed needle jet in about1/8 of a turn, let the engine run for about 15 seconds to respond toyour new setting. Do it again then wait for the results.A cough is indicative of a rich mixture.
Too leanit will just die. Whenyou make this change and the engines either sputters or wants to die, backit off the the last position then this should be close to the idealsetting.If you go to rich it will coughANDthen die. You can now pull the idle knob forwardand off the splined shaft, reposition it so that the knob pointer is downso you willhave movement either way from this position for fine tuning if needed. This low speed setting does not effect the highspeed running of the motor. However it you set it too lean, youmay later have a issue with it not wanting to start when it is warm.One thing if you look at the top of thiscarburetor, the 1/8' hole at mid-section topish is not plugged with alead shot like all the rest.
My thinking was did I loosen it andloose the plug? Well, after I got it running I covered that holewith my finger and the motor wanted to die. After numerous tries, Idecided it was not supposed to be plugged anyway and probably there as avent to alleviate any vacuum inside the float bowl.Inreinstalling the carburetor to the intake manifold, you may have toposition it so that it just starts onto the studs, then start threadingthe nuts on equally before finally tightening them. What I amsaying that there may no be enough room to start the LH nut if you havethe RH nut tight.There is no breatherbox on this motor as themouth of the carburetor is open behind the front of the cowling. Starboard side view of carburetor showing the idle jet shaft &choke rod.In the center of thecowling is the Slow-Speed (idle) knob & choke on leftIf when you get it all backtogether and can not get it to idle no matter how you adjust theHigh/Low speed knob and the idle needle is not worn or bent, you mightbe sucking air around the shaft behind the shaft packing nut.Tighten the nut down to where you still can rotate the shaft. Ifthat does not do it, smear some chassis grease around the nut threadsand the shaft where it enters the nut.
If that helps, then youneed to repack the packing gland area behind the nut. I have someOLD graphite impregnated water pump packing cord (probably can not buyit anymore) that I unwind a strand of cord and use it for packing underthe nut.
Or you now may be only able to get a Teflon stringpacking. You could possibly also use some sting type cord that youimpregnate with grease.Commonly Lost Part: T here is also a Z link rod (shown below)This ties the roller bar unit to the throttle valve of the carburetor. Donot loose it either, or a makeshift one will need to be fashioned from apiece of welding rod. The important thing here is to get the bends justright so that the timing is consistent when the timing plate moves thisroller forward to give movement in the throttle valve increasing fuel flow.Inthe illustration below is the dimensions for it if you need to fashion one.These appear to all be the same for these 6 and 8 hp motors from 1965 to 1979,AND the 9.9/ 15 hp from 1974 up until about 1986.
(And maybe more) after that, thereis a different number that has a slight 'V' bend front to back. OMC # 312830Link, cam followerFuel Pump: The first 2 yearsof production of this model (1965/1966), used a different (old style) fuel pump#0380016.This fuel pump was used onother motors as well, like at least the 9.5hp up until 1967, which is shown by clicking. Repair kits seem to be non-existentfor these older versions, however gaskets and screens still are.
However itis possible to convert over to the later small square style fuel pumpsrather easily as the mounting gasket #0388685 is used on both styles of fuelpumps, this part number includes the 2 mounting screws, while just the pumpassembly f is just thesame pump. Even this pump has undergone numerousunidentifiable small changes over time.
In adapting the newer styleregular pump, you will have to replace thetwo 10-24 X 1 1/2' mounting bolts with 2' bolts. They used the samelower mounting holes as shown on the same LH photo below for the later pumps.You may also have to replace at least one of the fuel lines.These later small square fuel pumps are pretty universal, the same one fitting most allthese small motors up to 40 hp until about 1987. For a link to therebuild procedure.Fuel Filter: This series of motor utilized 2 different fuelpumps, depending on the year of production. Both utilized afilter screen on the intake of the fuel pump.
The early model fuel pump,under the center screw surrounded by a rubber ring, which secured thescreen cover allowed the owner to access this screen as seen in the LHphoto below. When the factory went to the new style fuel pump onthis model in 1967, this pump also included a fuel filter screen, asseen in the RH photo below the black plastic inlet is secured by asingle center screw.
By removing this screw, this fuel inlet covercan be removed, UNDER and pressed into the underside is a fine stainlesssteel filter screen. Also is a Neopreme gasket just the shape ofthis cover. The cover and gasket have 4 scallops corresponding tothe 4 fuel pump bolts. If this fuel inlet needs to be rotated forbetter fuel line alignment, it can be rotated 4 different 90 degreelocations.
Here you see the early stylefuel pumpHere is thelater style fuel pumpFuel Tank & Lines: These motorsare all new enough (made after 1959/1960), which use the new style vacuum tank and the single fuel lineand fuel pump commonly found nowadays.R ecommendedFuel / Oil Mix: On these 2 cycle motors you have to mix the oilwith the gasoline to lubricate the internal parts of the motor,so you need to know how much gas you will be needing, add the oil before youfill the fuel tank so that the oil mixes better than just dumping it in afteryou fuel up. However if that is not possible, then guess, add a majority ofwhat you think it will take, top off the tank and then add the rest matching the amount ofgasoline it took to fill the tank. If you are using portable fuel thanks, before hand,when you fill it, make you a stick gauge, by adding 1 gallon at a time, use a clean 3/8' or 1/2' dowelstart filling the tank, markthe dowel at each gallon you add, then you can use it as a measuring stick.
This way you canrefill a partly full tank with the known amount of oil.Fuel/oil mix on all the OMC motors that have needle roller bearings(this motor included) is 50-1 of TCW-3 standard outboard oil. However Ihave found that since I troll much of the time, other than getting thereand back, I like to use a mix of 75-1 but of a SYNTHETIC blend oil insteadof the standard oil. This gives me at least the same or better motor lubrication, plusit gives me less smoke at a troll and the spark plugs last longer beforefouling.A quart has 32 ounces of oil in it.
So for a portable 6gallon tank to fill it using the 50:1 ratio would take 16 ounces, (1 pint) or1/2 of the quart.The formula shown below will be on all modern 2 cycle oil soldin the last 30 years or so. On most all of the pints and quart plasticbottles of TWC-3 oils there will be a narrow clear verticalwindow on the edge of the bottles. On the sides of this window will havenumbers representing ounces and Milliliters for other parts of the world.Or you can purchase special measuring containers showing different ratios andthe amount of ounces needed. Bottom side of timing plateTopof timing plate showing ignition systemThe throttlecam, at least on this 1972 version was just a plain plastic post.The newer ones (at least in the 1978 parts catalog) show a roller on top. I understand why, as thissolid plastic cam had 1/16' wear at the timing cam mating surface,(possibly because of the loose timing plate) creating ainitial timing problem. I did a patch repair using 4 minute JBWeld epoxy, filling the worn hole. In looking at the factoryservice manual for this model they recommend lubricating this matingsurface between this lever and cam.Recoil Starter: The recoil starter usesa rope type spool system that works very much like an automotive type starterunit only manually.Here isone instance where you may have problems achieving a compression testhigh enough to indicate a good reading.
This spool rope typestarter seems to not provide a lot of speed in comparison to othertypes, and you may need to pull the rope with the idea that you are madat it, no love pulls here if you want it to start with any reasonable regularity.If the compression is low for any of a multitude of reasons the motormay be harder to start, so all your adjustments need to be right.Occasionally you will findthe starter rope frayed. If so, replace it before it becomesbroken as your headaches will be a lot less. If you are notnear a marine dealer/repair shop, you might take some of the broken ropeand try a lawnmower repair shop to see if they have anything in a sizenear the broken one, and 5' will do it.While you have it out ofthe pull handle hole in the lower front cowling, take a look for anywear. If so it will usually be on the top of the hole and will bepear shaped with the narrower part where the rope has worn. Thismotor does not have a brass sleeve like the later models do, so it maybe best to ream that out a bit to keep the sides from wearing (creatingmore drag and chafing of the new rope). You can ream it bydrilling, or just using a round powersaw file to clean it up.
Ifyou do, be sure you do not leave any sharp or even rough burrs whichwill damage the new rope. I see no real need to now try andinstall a brass rope sleeve through this cowling as what wear you seeonly took 40 years to accomplish. To replacethe rope (if it has not become totally broken), you should first remove the spark plug wires for safety.The following was taken from a 1971 servicemanual.'
(1) Pull the rope out as far as you can, thenallow it to retract less than one revolution until the rope end of thespool faces the port side of the motor. Lock the starter in thisposition by lifting the starter pinion gear upward to engage theflywheel ring gear, and slide the slightly spread handles of apair of pliers under the gear, holding the gear upwards and into theflywheel gears. (2) remove the starter rope handle.(3) remove the rope from the spool.
(4) Replace witha new rope, which needs to be 56 1/4'long, then burn the ends with match for about 1/2' to keep them fromunraveling plus to be stiff so they will hold in the spool or anchor.Thread the rope thru the slot in the spool AS IT CAME OUT OF.(5) Thread the rope thru the motor cover and install the handle.(6) Hold the starter rope handle to keep it from rewinding toorapidly, remove the pliers allowing the rope to rewind normally.To remove thestarter unit from the power head, (1) pull the starter handle and form aknot in the rope to prevent the rope to recoil while removing thehandle. Remove the handle. (2) remove the rope.Hold the starter spool then slowly allow the starter main spring tounwind completely. Remove both the bearing head screws and frontspring retainer plate screw, allowing the plate to drop enough torelease the starter spring. Lift the starter unit up and away fromthe powerhead. (3) remove everything, clean and inspect for wear.To reassemblethe cleaned starter unit, (1) place the upper bushing and starter headwith the pinion gear spring onto the spool. (2) Insert thespring retainer in the spool.
Align the slot in the gear withholes in the spool and spring retainer. Insert the roll pin withits split seam in a horizontal position to avoid dragging against theslot in the pinion gear.
(3) DO NOT oil the gear or spool, this will attract dirt, causing pinionto bind on spool. (4) Insert the spring into the bottom ofthe spool, turn to engage with the slot of the spring retainer.To replacethe starter unit to the powerhead, (1) Place the bushing in thespring retainer plate. (2) Twist the spring to lock the innerspring onto the spring carrier. Pull the end of the outer springout of the spool and hook it onto the retainer. (3) Placethe guide in the starter plate.
Insert the spring hook into theretainer plate slot. (NOTE if the spring hook has broken off, you canre-bend the end). Raise the retainer plate to hold the spring.Install the front retainer plate screw and tighten the rear screw.remove the spring from the spring retainer. Install the starterassembly to the intake manifold. (4) Place a heavy dutyscrewdriver or a brace with a screwdriver bit in the slot in the topof the starter spool shaft. Wind the main spring 16 1/2turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE.
The rope anchor hole in the spool shouldface to the port side of the powerhead. Raise the pinion gear toengage the flywheel and lock it in position with pliers. (5)Install the rope as described in the rope replacement paragraph.' No StarterInterlock: Onmany, (usually later motors) of this size there is a starterinterlock built in so that you can not start the motor in any gearbut neutral. This motor DOES NOT HAVE this feature.PersonalObservations on Replacing The Starter Unit: If just the rope broke, DO NOT remove any ofthe starter parts. It is not as easy as described above to getthe spring back in it's proper location, especially if someonepreviously had tried to repair it AND wound the spool clockwise,distorting the spring. If just the rope is broke,rewind the spring as mentioned above (however it is hard todetermine in what position the spool should be in before you startwinding it the 16 1/2 turns).
Once you have it wound undertension, replace the rope and go from there. Lets explainwinding the spring wrong, damaging it.
This spring is ONEspring, with an inner wound coil AND a outer wound coil. Ifyou try to wind the spring as it appears it should be to retract therope on the spool (just looking at the outer part of the spring) - WRONG - because of it having the innerand outer windings as a continus wire, the inner winds one way, andthe outer (which attached to the spool, the other way.Any unwinding a coil spring damages it.If for some reason you removed thestarter unit and found some of the bottom outer coils wereconsiderably larger that the uppers, someone has tried before toreplace it, but wound the spool CLOCKWISE. This will make ithard to reassemble where you need to get the outer lower hook in theproper slot of the retainer plate AND at the same time this hookinto the underside front recess of the lower main housing. Exploded view ofthe 6 hp starter unit.Water Cooling System: These outboard motors are water cooled, requiring a waterpump system. They utilized ascreened water intake BEHIND the prop, using it's motion to force water upinto the water pump (as shown in a photo below). This was well known in those days and themechanics put the motor in a tank (WITH THE PROP ON) to do a test.
Nowafter 50 years, there seems to be many Do It Yourselfers who are new tooutboards and do not understand this system, who put the motor in a smallgarbage can, but take the prop off so it will not cut the can. Thismay allow your motor to run, but not for an extensive amount of time becauseof the now underwater exhaust bubbling in the can, which disrupts any waterflow (because of a lot of air bubbles) up into the pump.If there was an aftermarket waterintake attachment, they are now long extinct, but a do it yourself unit isshown below.Also the cooling system has to have water flowing through it.This could be restricted at the intake, as mentioned above, or in side themotor, especially if it has been used extensively in saltwater. Or usedoccasionally in salt water and not flushed, then sat for some time, allowingsalt crystals to build up and block passages. So first off if the motoris getting warm or not exiting exhaust water, it may be beneficial tocheck/replace the water pump impeller. If you still get the suspicionthat there is still no/or minimal water flow, look deeper. First wouldbe check the thermostat, these are simple to get to inrelationship to other repairs as the thermostats are a thing that needsattention quite often. They are in a cavity in the top of the head and covered by a bolt on plate.
Pull them out and carefullyclean if there is any debris covering/in them. If they are coated withsalt crustation, sometimes a soaking in ordinary Vinegar will loosen that.Once clean to check if it is functioning properly, place it in a pan of waterand bring it up to a boil. Most of these are designed to open at from145 to 165 degrees.
I fit is stuck, then time to install a new one.If all that does not help, then pull the head off and check/clean anydebris out of the water jacket cavities around the cylinders and inside thehead. Most all of these smaller motorshave a water jacket cover on one side of the motor, if so pull it off andagain clean any passages.If your motor is old enough and does not have a tell tale pee tube(overboard water indicator), I suggest that you install one (again as shownbelow) so you can see theactual stream of water. This is not all of the water, but only a portionof it.Water Intake: These motors mainwater supply to the water pump comes from a screened tube right behindthe prop in the exhaust outlet. Water is forced into thescreened intake to the water pump by the prop thrust. Some usersreport that when running these motors in a barrel, (usually a smallone) that the prop has to be installed and usually in gear as apparentlythey need to get more water pushed to the water pump by the prop toget enough to cool when running at over an idle.If youhave water starvation at higher RPMs, is the inlet screen in place inthe leading edge of the exhaust snout?
Is the plug in place atthe bottom where they inserted it? If this plug is missing, itwill starve for water at speed.There is a alsoa stainless steel reverse water intake plate with a few holes near the water pump area onthe left side above the cavitation plate shown in the photos below. Flushkits for this motor are rather scarce. There is really noprovision currently available for a easy muff system to run this motorout of a tank. But there is hope.T hermostats: These are the same from5hp to 55hp for years 1959 to 1994. Since these motors areusually used in fresh water only, they can usually beremoved, cleaned up with no problems. Pretty well pluggedwater intake screen with paint & debrisNo Overboard WaterIndicator on Early Motors: The 1972 motor I wasworking on did not have a overboard water indicator (pee hole) whichdid not came into being on these motors until 1977.
Starter 1965 40hp Johnson Parts
They dohave a 'water outlet' as seen in the illustration below. Thisoutlet allows for some outlet water to mix with the exhaust gasses tocool the housing and at the same time allows only a small amount ofexhaust with some spitting water, as an indicator of sorts, some maycall it second exhaust port, however in actuality, in these smallerengines you could say it is an idle bypass, because at idle speeds thereis not enough exhaust pressure to overcome the under-water pressure outthe larger hole near the prop.I have looked at other newer motorsand theirindicator line comes off the side platecover. However 3 of my side plate bolts were seized, with the chance of twisting them offbeing very likely and 2 of those were in ahard place to get to at the bottom. Plus I did not really want to tear the powerhead off themidsection to get to the possible twisted off bolts for repair.Time now for Plan B, I have traced the water flow in the service manualand found that a simple modificationto the thermostat cover can bemade to create a water indicator hole line. The thermostat cover is at thetop rear of the head. It uses 3 bolts for attachment. Thereis a bypass flow from the motor's intake to behind the thermostat.I reasoned that if this bypass was there to relieve pressure buildupbefore the thermostat opens, that I could tap into it and not make anychange in the thermostated cooling of the motor itself.
W ater passage thru this motorIf you takethis thermostat cover off then Heliarc weld a slight amount of weld (evenusing JB Weld epoxy would work) on the top side at the same locationthat the bypass enters from underneath, you can then drill and tap for a1/8' pipe tap, USING THE BYPASS HOLE ON THE UNDERSIDE AS AN ALIGNMENTGUIDE. DRILL FROM THE UNDERSIDE, CENTERED IN THE EXISTING ROUNDRECESS. You need to add this material because the cover is sothin at that location that you possibly can not get enough material togive more than a couple threads for the new outlet Ell. Now you can screw a90 degree pipe elbow (it is best to purchase an OMC Ell #321886) which are madeof nylon, which are recommended as they are more forgiving if you need totighten more into this holeand add rubber tubing to the starboardside then drill a hole in the lower rear cowling for it to exit.For the hose, I have found thatautomotive windshield wiper hose works great. Rear view of the placement of new pee hole elbow & lineon the top of the thermostat housingNote the newcountersunk flathead screw on the left needed for clearance of thenew Ell fitting.Another Method ofInstalling a Water Indicator: The reason I did not do the factory method on the above conversion wasthat 3 of the lower water jacket screws were seized. Idid not want to have to pull the powerhead to be able to get at thesebroken screws if it came to that.Now, I have discovered that IF youare careful and drill the initial hole with a smaller drill AND smear somechassis grease on the front of the drill bit, you can recover most ofthe aluminum chips. Move up to the the proper hole ('R' drill.339' or a 11/32.344') for the 1/8' pipesize Ell and again smear the grease on the drill bit.
Then again smear grease on the 1/8'pipe tap when tapping, but don't tap really deep as pipe taps aretapered allowing the pipe to be screwed in deeper, tightening it,creating less leakage the deeper it goes. Since this material ispossibly rather thin, only go part way in with the tap, try your Ell andadjust the tap depth if needed.Locate the hole near the top ofthe water jacket as seen in the photo of a newer motor shown below.As a note, the pre 1993 9.9/15hp motorshave the Ell low on their water jackets and are susceptible to minutedebris plugging the Ell. If this Ell is located higher then itappears to be less susceptible to debris plugging. 1984 6hp waterindicator tube off the water jacket coverShift LeverBreakage: A common problem is a brokenaluminum metal gearshift lever.
The motor falls on it's side and this breakswhere the steel shaft is molded to the alloy shift handle. OR ifthe operator is not aware of the construction of the gearbox/shifterslider cutch dog system and FORCES the handle, it could break off. A painto fix usually unless you know a good aluminum alloy welder. The shifting leverrod runs through the exhaust so the little cam that transfers motionfrom the lever to the rod corrodes and it is just about impossible toremove the screw without damage. A new shift lever is expensive ifavailable,and of course you have to remove the powerhead to access it.Twist GripProblems: The twist grip retainer screw threads can become cross threaded uponreassembly if you are not careful. About the only way to correctthis is to run a 12 X 28 (this is an uncommon, but standard size)tap thru to clean up the old threads. Then be very careful when you try to getthis screw started because the handle is under spring tension.
Ihave found that it is best to get the threads aligned with the hole inthe handle as best you can while holding the handle rearward as tight aspossible AND then using a small Philips screwdriver or similar tool toreach in thru the handle hole and try to align both while holding tight.Then get the screw started as straight as possible.These motors DO NOT share all the sameproblematic throttle twist grip gearing system as mentioned extensivelyin the in thatthese series you can raise the handle up while changing speed withoutjumping the gear teeth. This one used the early gears made of castbronze, I had to braze new teeth onto the broken ones and hand grindthem with a Dermel tool tomatch the originals.Tilt Lock: This motor has a small lever lock infront under and behind the clamping screws to hold it in the runningposition. This is so if you put the motor in reverse andgive it some power that the lower unit will not pop up and out of water.Sometimes these are called the reverse lock arm.usually labeled.
1977 Evinrude 70 Hp Starter
Johnson Outboard StartersIf your Johnson Outboard is difficult to start, it is likely that the starter mechanism or solenoid is worn and requires replacement. To troubleshoot and determine the extent of the problem with your Johnson Outboard starter, here are some spot checks you can perform yourself:TroubleshootingProblem: Starter engages, but solenoid clicksTroubleshoot by measuring the voltage at the starter terminal to battery ground using a voltage meter with the starter engaged. If 12 V, repair or replace starter and solenoidProblem: Solenoid doesn’t click when starter key is turned.Troubleshoot by measuring voltage at small solenoid terminal.
If there are no volts registered, troubleshoot further by testing the kill switch to ensure it is connected, the battery, starter switch, and the controller neutral start switch. If up to 2 volts register, replace the solenoid.Problem: Starter engages, but low voltage registers.First remove and clean all connections on the battery-to-solenoid cable, battery-to-engine block cable and solenoid-to-starter cable. Inspect for corrosion and broken insulation. Replace as needed.Next, troubleshoot by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals. If it is below 12.6 volts with all electrics turned off, recharge or replace the battery.Also measure the battery voltage with the starter engaged. If it registers below 9 volts, recharge or replace the battery.Replacement Parts for Johnson Outboard StartersIf your troubleshooting indicates that replacement parts for your outboard starter are required, now that Wholesale Marine carries a line of quality replacement parts including a selection of, and When you have questions regarding which solenoid is right for your boat, Wholesale Marine’s knowledgeable staff of boating enthusiasts will be glad to help.
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